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WINES By Chuck Hill
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Versatile Chardonnay - A Pleasing Wine
for All Chardonnay wines offer the greatest variety of style and price of any New World white wine. Lighter styles are inexpensive and accompany a wide variety of cuisines. Styles with lots of toasty oak, vanilla and lees character complement richer foods and present an opportunity to sniff, sip and appreciate the hedonistic symbiosis of vineyard and winemaking. (Note our upcoming reference to sur lie,¯ French for the lees.)¯ Many higher end Chardonnays are left on the lees¯ [dead yeast cells] in the barrel to gain added creamy, textural complexity and protection against oxidation. The wine lees are often stirred [FR = batonnage] to amplify the process.) Here is our first selection of Chardonnays for your springtime meals:
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Chardonnays from Chateau Ste. Michelle's Cold Creek Vineyard have been winning praise from critics and consumers alike for more two decades. The vineyard is located between the Yakima Valley and Wahluke Slope AVAs in a pocket that provides ample heat to ripen all grape varieties consistently. The complex nose of the wine features apple, citrus and butterscotch, with the palate offering firm body and rich flavors of toasty pear, butter and lemon. Great with our roasted chicken entrƩe.
Pend d'Orielle Winery
Arbor Crest Grapes from Conner Lee Vineyard are highly sought after for the fine quality produced at this eastern-end-of-the-Wahluke Slope property. Winemaker Kristina Mielke-van Loben Sels crafts this Chardonnay from Conner Lee fruit and also a vineyard-designated Cabernet Franc. This vintage of the Conner Lee Chardonnay offers aromas of mineral, floral perfume, apple and pear. The palate is lean and complex with grapefruit, mineral and pear flavors leading to a firm finish that pairs well with rich lighter meats and flavorful sauces.
Rolling Bay Winery
My old friend from the Seattle-area graphics industry, Alphonse de Klerk, is the driving force and winemaker for this Bainbridge Island-based winery. The grapes for this wine come from the new Snipes Mountain AVA southwest of Sunnyside in the Yakima Valley. Aromas of stone fruits and mineral lead to rich flavors of citrus, sweet apricot, mineral and notes of sur lie aging (eight months in barrel with batonnage). Very tasty with lighter fare or as an aperitif.
L'Ecole No 41 Winemaker Marty Clubb will mark his twentieth Chardonnay vintage in 2011, having adding the varietal to the L'Ecole No 41 lineup in 1991. Chardonnay at L'Ecole is barrel fermented in the Burgundian style from fruit harvested (for this vintage) at selected Schmitt Vineyard (Yakima Valley) and Evergreen Vineyard (above the Columbia River near George, Washington). Aromas of ripe apple, Asian pear and buttery vanilla lead to a rich palate featuring flavors of sweet lemon, pear, toasty butter, grapefruit and vanilla. This wine is highly versatile and can be served as a pre-prandial sipper or with lighter meats and cheeses.
Northwest Mountain Winery The tropical character of Chardonnay comes out in this stainless steel-fermented version from Ray Curtis' Northwest Mountain Winery in Olympia. Ray crafts a wide selection of fruit wines in addition to a half dozen varietal grape wines. Look for aromas and flavors of pineapple, citrus, pear and vanilla with a crisp finish that complements a wide variety of lighter cuisine.
Snoqualmie makes two different Chardonnay wines: this Columbia Valley
bottling which is partially barrel fermented and sur lie aged. The
other bottling listed below - made from organic grapes - is cold
fermented in stainless steel. Aromas and flavors of pear and citrus are
complemented by hints of toasty oak and sur lie character on the
finish. A very good value for sipping or sharing with a meal.
Snoqualmie Vineyards This wine follows all standards to be labeled "organic,"¯ including being grown in organically-farmed vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The grapes are crushed and fermented at cool temperatures until fermentation is arrested to preserve a balance of natural sugars and acidity. The wine is bottled without barrel age. Delicate aromas of pears and citrus lead to a crisp palate of citrus and floral notes with a touch of sweetness on the finish.
Madsen Family Cellars Dana Madsen operates his winery just outside of Olympia, Washington crafting a wide variety of red and white wines. His 2009 Chardonnay was fermented in new French oak barrels and aged in stainless steel. Well received by our tasting panel, it shows aromas of floral perfume, melon, lychee and pear, leading to a palate of melon, pear and citrus with a crisp finish perfect to accompany lighter meats and appetizers.
Maryhill Winery Maryhill's Proprietor's Reserve Chardonnay benefits from a little breathing time to open up and show its best. The nose offers aromas of ripe apple, mineral and citrus with tropical and floral notes. Flavors on the palate include pear, toasty earth, baking spice and vanilla. This Chardonnay is a great accompaniment to rich foods and cream sauces.
Francis Tannahill Cheryl Francis and Sam Tannahill succeeded as winemakers in Oregon before joining forces in both matrimony and winemaking at their own namesake winery. Their wines are known for unique aromatics gained through grape selection and winemaking technique. This Chardonnay hails from the Applegate Valley in southern Oregon. Look for aromas of pear and mineral with notes of green bean and fresh mown grass. The palate offers flavors of pear, citrus, mineral and toasty earth that pair well with roasted fowl, baked fish or savory casseroles and pastas.
Columbia Crest This value Chardonnay was crafted from grapes grown in a variety of vineyard locations in Washington State. The wine was stainless steel fermented to preserve fresh fruit character, then 20% of the wine was barrel aged and underwent malolactic fermentation to add complexity. Aromas of light pear and vanilla lead to a more complex palate featuring flavors of stone fruits, citrus and vanilla wafer. Wines from other areas:
Frei Brothers Winery
Frei Brothers Reserve wines come from the diverse agricultural areas of Sonoma County, California, which includes the Russian River Valley, and the Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. This Russian River Valley Chardonnay shows aromas of green apple and citrus with notes of butter and toasty oak. The palate is complex with flavors of lemony grapefruit, caramel, toast and vanilla. The finish shows hints of tropical fruit and mineral. Highly rated by our tasting panel and a tasty wine with lighter dinner fare.
Greg Norman Golfer Greg Norman has his own wine estates in both California and Australia - both brands sport his famous "Shark"¯ logo. This tasty Chardonnay from Santa Barbara County in California offers aromas of light pear, mango, citrus, vanilla and pineapple. Flavors of pear, tropical fruits and toasty vanilla greet the palate. Very nice with lighter fare, and a great way to say "G'Day"¯ to your guests as an aperitif.
Penfold's Thomas Hyland was the son-in-law of Dr. Christopher Rawson Penfold, one of the pioneers of Australian wine. This South Australia Chardonnay hails from the region near Adelaide and is labeled "Cool Climate"¯ for its location. Peach and citrus mingle on both the nose and palate with tingly acidity to help the wine pair with a wide variety of foods.
Black Box Wines This edition of Black Box Chardonnay includes Riesling, Gewurztraminer and other white varieties to add complexity. The wine has ample acidity, a bit of residual sugar and moderate alcohol content - a crowd pleaser in every respect. Aromas of apple, tropical fruits and floral perfume are echoed in the flavors on the palate. The best part of this tasty Chardonnay is the price of only (the equivalent) of $6.25 per bottle. Have a grilled chicken or fish tacos party! # # #
One-year
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