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By Chuck Hill
CHUCK'S CURRENT PREVIOUS SERIES Versatile Chardonnay EARLIER COLUMNS
Syrah & Petite Sirah
Tasty Italian Varietals...
The Game of Gewürztraminer
Wines of the Week REVIEWS BY VARIETAL
Chuck's Wine Reviews
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Viognier – The 2010 Quest Begins Perhaps the easiest part of understanding Viognier is the pronunciation... vee-own-yay. More difficult is deciphering the styles of the wines and their suitability to accompany food. The aroma profile ranges from intense peach and apricot to dusty mineral with pear and citrus. The palate impression is sometimes dry with mineral and stone fruits and sometimes sweet with apricot flavor and higher alcohol. We’ve just begun our annual evaluation of this Rhone varietal, and we’ve found some very tasty Viognier to enjoy. The winemaking style is evolving to be more food friendly, and on the plate this week is Sesame Chicken with Thai Noodles. Doyenne Winemaker Chris Upchurch sourced the grapes for this tempting white wine from Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain. It is a blend of 88% Viognier and 12% Roussanne which delivers a most complex wine exhibiting the best characters of both varietals. From the Viognier, aromas of fruit cup (the winery says honeysuckle, stone fruits, jasmine, bee pollen) and vanilla. On the palate, the Roussanne reaches for the whip and tames the floral-fruity flavors of the Viognier with flint, citrus, and white peach. Ample acidity on the finish promises superb food-friendliness, a yummy match for noodles or more elegant light foods. The winner. Memaloose Memaloose is the native American name for a sacred island in the Columbia Gorge near the areas in Washington and Oregon where the winery has planted vineyards. This tasty white is a blend of 56% Viognier from McKinley Springs Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and 44% Chardonnay from Underwood Mountain in the Columbia Gorge. On the nose, look for peach, apple and mineral with hints of floral perfume. The palate yields sharp fruit flavors of lemon, grapefruit and green apple with notes of flint and talc. Great with food and lighter on the wallet.
Folin Cellars claimed quite a few medals with this flavorful wine, 100% estate grown and safe-from-tca (cork taint), sealed with the Vino Seal glass closure. Aromas of melon, apple, baking spice and floral perfume lead to a crisp palate of lemon, melon and mineral with a bit of alcohol heat on the finish. Best with flavorful foods like our noodle selection.
The more Rhone blends I taste, the more I believe that this is the future for all Viognier wines in the U.S. Blending with Marsanne or Roussanne brings a little richness in mouthfeel, austerity and complexity in flavor, and the giddy, fruit-bomb potential of Viognier. Look for a nose of citrus, white peach, apple-vanilla custard and flint. The palate leans to tropical flavors of pineapple and citrus with a tangy, food-friendly finish. Abeja Winemaker John Abbot crafts his Viognier from grapes grown at the Abeja Estate Vineyard east of Walla Walla. The wine is barrel fermented in neutral oak and brings forth exceptional character for this unique varietal. Aromas of ripe peach, apple, creamy butter and flint are a delight, and the flavors of Asian pear, mineral and peach are complemented by crisp acidity. As a 2009 release, the wine shows more fully with a little breathing time. Available from the winery. Whidbey Island Vineyard
So is this a Viognier tasting or what?
When I decided to include white Rhone blends, I didn’t mind
tasting those with just a small percentage of Viognier. Greg Osenbach’s blend offers aromas of light apricot, lime zest
and jasmine with rich flavors of stone fruits, mineral and citrus.
Though you can find the wine in the Seattle area, take the ferry
and visit the winery near Langley if you are looking for a fun day out. Halter Ranch Many wineries in the Paso Robles area are pursuing
Rhone varietals with great success.
Halter Ranch Viognier is blended with 11% Roussanne and offers
complex aromas and flavors of pear, white peach, mineral and floral
perfume. The palate is rich
and food friendly. If you
are in this area of California, you can visit this historic property in
the beautiful Paso Robles wine country. Robison Ranch Robison Ranch was once the major U.S. producer of
shallots for the culinary trade.
As that part of the business has waned, Brad and Ruth Riordan
have stepped in as partners with Jim Robison to begin a winery operation
on the site. Ripe Viognier
aromas of pear, peach, lychee, baking spice and honeysuckle lead to a
tangy palate of white peach and mineral.
A slight phenolic (tannin) character is evident on the palate,
but serves well when the wine is paired with food.
Winemaker Lloyd Anderson specializes in Rhone and
Mediterranean varietals at his Shelton, Washington winery.
He offers a varietal Viognier and Roussanne as white wines.
Aromas of pear and vanilla mingle with notes of jasmine and
mineral in this Viognier. The palate adds
citrus and spice flavors with notes of floral perfume.
Tasty with our sesame chicken, though a bit hot on the finish. Tertulia Cellars Tertulia is a Spanish word meaning “a social gathering of friends.” This Walla Walla-area winery is sourcing grapes from various vineyards in the Columbia Valley until their own Walla Walla vineyards come into bearing. Tertulia Viognier is barrel fermented in French oak with about 50% new. The wine offers apple, pear and mineral aromas with notes of baking spice and light toast. The palate shows light peach and mineral flavors that balance well with Asian cuisine and other light dishes. Fess Parker When Fess Parker was cast in the role of Davy Crockett in the mid-1950s, it changed his life forever. So too did the purchase of 714 acres in the Santa Ynez Valley change the history of the Parker family. When he passed away two months ago, he left a large winery operation with four vineyards in Santa Barbara County. Baby boomers can put on their coonskin caps and enjoy the winery’s toasty Viognier, brimming with aromas and flavors of citrus, peach and mineral. A touch of sweetness on the palate adds to sipping pleasure as an aperitif. Severino Cellars Severino Cellars opened their doors in 2007 in Zillah, in Washington’s Yakima Valley. The owners are Jay and Linda Spurlock and their daughter and son-in-law Nikki and Severino Samaniego. This first vintage of Viognier from the estate vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills offers aromas and flavors of apple, peach and baking spice. Nice acidity and notes of mineral add to the food friendliness of the wine. # # #
One-year
Archive of previous
Wines of the Week reviews
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Folin
Cellars 
Walter Dacon