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WINES By Chuck Hill
About Chuck
CHUCK'S CURRENT PREVIOUS SERIES Up and Coming Reds EARLIER COLUMNS
Pinot Noir and Copper River Salmon Viognier – The 2010 Quest Begins
Versatile Chardonnay
Syrah & Petite Sirah
Wines of the Week REVIEWS
BY VARIETAL
Chuck's Wine Reviews
OTHER STUFF
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Last Week's Reviews
Zinfandel and Mixed Grill – Special Report 2 Juicy berry and “cran-cherry” flavors of Zinfandel continue to pair up with summer foods from the grill. Chef Ted skewered up some marinated meats – pork shoulder, sirloin steak and tri-tip – to match up with a fine flight of Zinfandels from vintages ranging from 2006 to 2008. For the record, sirloin steak has more beefy flavor than tri-tip beef, and cubed pork shoulder also scores high marks for taste that complements these fruity and spicy Zins. To increase the likelihood of availability, we have included a larger percentage of California Zinfandels in these reviews than the less available Northwest Zins.
Angel Vine If you have never traveled across the Wahluke Slope in central Washington, you should make a point of doing it in the spring or late fall when the weather is cooler. It is in this hot, dry climate that Zinfandel thrives, including at the Stone Tree Vineyard just east of Mattawa. Ed Fus has another winner in his Stone Tree Zin featuring aromas of boysenberry custard, cran-cherry and toast. The palate is complex with flavors of blackberry and cherry, notes of leather, tobacco, creamy vanilla, and hints of oak. A very nice bottle for the end of a summer-grilling party.
Gundlach Bundschu
Harvest Moon Winery As we step away from rich and heavy oak, we find another side of Zinfandel that evokes more finesse and contemplation. This wine was a big favorite with our tasters. As a food-friendly alternative, this wine from Harvest Moon Winery shows classic Russian River Valley Zinfandel with cran-cherry and red fruit aromas and a palate with tight berry flavors and ample acidity to complement food and refresh the palate.
Sierra Vista Vineyards Winemaker John McCready is dedicated to growing Zinfandel fruit that is mature without being overripe. His vineyard practices combined with his chosen microclimate produce Zinfandel with intense flavor, deep color and finesse without adding the overripe character and intense oak flavors that are the hallmark of many of today’s Zins. Aromas of spicy boysenberry and citrus lead to a palate with flavors of berry, plum, pepper and dark chocolate/vanilla cream. John recommends spicy barbeque, Mexican dishes or Indian cuisine.
Peachy Canyon Peachy Canyon Winery is on California’s Central Coast in the Westside of Paso Robles. Producers of more than a half-dozen Zins this bottling is the most ripe of any in the stable. The Vortex offers big berry fruit with cocoa and mineral notes along with distinct aromas and flavors of the American oak used for aging. The palate is complex with forward blackberry and cherry fruit dancing with nuances of leather, black pepper and vanilla.
The term Old Vine was first coined by DCV founder David Stare in 1986, and indeed the vines producing grapes for this bottling are 85 years old. Blended with 18% Petite Sirah and aged in 50% new oak, the wine is dark in color and intense in aroma and flavor. Aromas of raspberry and spice with additional complex notes of dark chocolate and coffee lead to a well-structured palate showing flavors of dark fruits, spice and vanilla. A well-heeled companion to foods from the grill or lighter fare served before dinner.
Michael and Anne Dashe have complementary training with enology degrees from U.C. Davis and the University of Bordeaux, respectively. Michael’s background as assistant winemaker at Ridge and other background at Far Niente and Schramsberg gave the newlywed couple confidence to found their own label in 1996. The focus of the winery is single vineyard wines including this succulent bottling of Florence Vineyard Zinfandel. Aromas are of dusty lavender, blackberry and floral perfume. The palate gives a soft impression with flavors of blackberry and boysenberry complemented by vanilla and chocolate.
J. Rickards This wine communicates the rustic side of Sonoma County, while simultaneously showing the character and finesse of Dry Creek Valley fruit. Aromas of earthy berry and smoky spice are unremarkable, but lead to ripe blackberry and black cherry flavors with notes of toasty oak, dried hay and vanilla. As an accompaniment to grilled meats and veggies it takes center stage as the appropriate harvest-time, go-to Zin.
Girard Winery This Napa Valley Zinfandel shows distinct differences to the Dry Creek wines seen elsewhere in these reviews. The overall effect of the wine is one of refinement and character – a standard of all Girard wines. Zinfandel fruit is present as 85 per cent with Petite Sirah, Mourvedre and Syrah blended in to form the balance. The aroma and flavors are of blackberry, cherry, plum and cedary, toasty oak. Complex nuances of spice and ripe cherry on the palate contribute to a sense of Napa Valley style over Sonoma’s easygoing manner.
Cakebread Cellars
This is another tightly-wound Zinfandel with lots of new oak and
meticulous winemaking crafting a special wine for special occasions.
The fruit from Lake County is perfection highlighting raspberry, cherry
and strawberry aromas with milk chocolate, coconut and pepper scents.
The palate of black cherry and blackberry flavors is wrapped with fine
oak nuances and seems more suited to prime rib, rather than hot dogs.
Tasty with the fare, none-the-less.
Maryhill Winery This wine tips the alcohol scale at 16.4% but fulfils the promise of a Port-like experience with style and grace. Big fruit, big oak, ripe plum, cherry tobacco, coffee, cocoa, smoky bacon, caramel. Throw in a scone, and I could enjoy it with breakfast! This big wine is for big wine lovers… you know who you are!
Edmeades The moment I read the first sentence of Edmeades’ winery philosophy, I knew I would like this Zinfandel. “Mendocino is more than a geographical location, it’s a state of mind.” On a photography field trip from Berkeley in the summer of ’71 I discovered the Mendocino state of mind…but I digress. Aromas of cherry pie, toasty crust and scents of wild herbs wafting into the dining room. Flavors of ripe cherry, smoky plum, with earthy and vanilla notes. Unfiltered, unfined, indigenous yeast fermentation. Where’s my Volkswagen van, I gotta visit this place again!
Troon Vineyard I’ve driven around the Applegate Valley. Taken a spin on Kubli Road (south of Grant’s Pass). But I haven’t been able to pin down the exact location of the “Kubli Bench.” Doesn’t matter. The warm little corner of southern Oregon is home to Troon Vineyard and their tasty Kubli Bench Zinfandel. Classic Zin aromas of pencil lead, raspberry and black pepper meander down Kubli Road to a palate of cran-cherry, berry and vanilla.
Alexander Valley Vineyards Alexander Valley Vineyards is named for the valley, which is named for the founder of the estate (Cyrus Alexander) upon which the winery sits. The Wetzel family purchased the estate in 1962 and began producing wines in 1975. The label on this wine is controversial. Some folks are creeped out, and some love the Mexican “day of the dead” impression. Either way, the wine is fun and fruity with cran-cherry, berry, vanilla and barrel spice. Stock up for your Day of the Dead party on November 2nd.
Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi The Robert Mondavi and Woodbridge names carry on despite the great man’s passing and the reassignment of rights to name wine products. Bringing wine to every household table in the Italian tradition was one of Mondavi’s passions, and this wine is a perfect example of fulfilling that desire. Toasty berry and earth aromas, cran-cherry and toasty cedar on the palate.
Clos LaChance When the fire dies down to embers and the hostess brings out the cheese course (or cheesecake). One can always appreciate a little sweet wine to carry the Zinfandel theme into the twilight. Aromas of dried cranberries and blackberries mingle with notes of vanilla. The palate is very balanced with the sweetness enhancing the flavors of cassis, cocoa and toasty vanilla. # # #
One-year
Archive of previous
Wines of the Week reviews
Copyright
© 2010 Chuck Hill |
German immigrant Jacob Gundlach began the winery that carries his name
in 1858 when he purchased 400 acres of land in Sonoma County and planted
his vineyard, Rhinefarm, with 60,000 vines brought back from Europe.
Later, business partner Charles Bundschu comes onboard, marries Jacob’s
daughter and the rest is history. (For the fascinating details of the
history, see:
