WINES
OF
THE WEEK

By Chuck Hill

About Chuck
 

Wines of the Week
Published July 21, 2010

Up and Coming Reds
By Chuck Hill 

As wineries seek out new varietals to expand their offerings, they sometimes look to wines that have succeeded in other regions or those that might grow well in particular microclimates.  Often these selections are made somewhat arbitrarily; sometimes great thought and planning result in great success.  We embark on evaluations of red wines: Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot (Bordeaux blending varieties), Tempranillo (Spain’s great red wine) and Grenache (the component from the Rhone that provides the grapey goodness).  Some other players will creep in to provide interest.

Spangler Vineyards
2007 Cabernet Franc
Southern Oregon
$24.00

We don’t often achieve unanimity in declaring favorite wines, but Pat Spangler’s luscious and varietally correct Cabernet Franc placed at the top of our recent tasting.  Showing complex earth, herb, blackcurrant, caramel and lilac aromas, this wine could easily best many French Chinon or Saumur bottlings from the Loire.  Adding minerality and savory smoky notes in the mouth, it is a real palate pleaser and a superb food wine.

Northwest Wine Academy
2006 Cabernet Franc
Columbia Valley
$15.00

The wine students at South Seattle Community College make some great wines that offer the consumer superb value.  This Cabernet Franc is ripe and straightforward, showing cassis, herb and chalky minerality in both nose and palate.  Check the website for current wine offerings, www.northwestwineacademy.southseattle.edu.

Fielding Hills
2007 Cabernet Franc
Wahluke Slope, Riverbend Vineyard
$30.00

Mike and Karen Wade started Fielding Hills Winery in 2000 utilizing fruit from the family –owned RiverBend Vineyards in Mattawa, Washington.  I smelled and tasted their Cabernet Franc and came up with a one-word first impression, “voluptuous.”  Aromas of buttery vanilla, cherry and boysenberry lead to a palate that expands the olfactory offering with flavors of blackberry, baking spice and smoky, toasty oak.

 

Saviah Cellars
2007 Cabernet Franc
Walla Walla Valley
$28.00

This Cab Franc shows its appellation and winemaker’s skill in its over-the-top character.  Loads of ripe blackberry and black cherry are tickled by notes of herbs and toasty French oak.  The palate is spicy and full, with blueberry flavor yielding to a finish of toasty oak and vanilla.  This is a mouthful of wine that needs hearty meats from the grill for the ultimate hedonistic enjoyment.

Chateau Ste. Michelle
2007 Malbec
Wahluke Slope
Limited Release
$25.00

“Yond Cassius has a lean and hungry look, he thinks too much; such men are dangerous.” So says Julius Caesar in the Bard’s immortal tragedy.  I find the Malbec varietal to be lean and hungry, offering lean earthy, savory and floral notes overlaying cranberry, cassis, black tea and plum.  This limited release wine shows more fat and fun than my introduction would suggest, but both men and women would be dangerous to any accompanying grilled lamb lying about.

Camaraderie Cellars
2007 Malbec Crawford Vineyard
Yakima Valley
$27.50

Don Corson, owner/winemaker at Camaraderie is very enthusiastic about his Malbec.  The fruit is sourced from Crawford Vineyard in the Yakima Valley – a comparatively cool site, allowing for extra “hang time” and corresponding flavor development.  Look for ripe aromas of cherry, herbs and toasty oak with floral notes.  The palate adds mineral qualities and flavors of cranberry with vanilla and cedar.

Abacela
2007 Malbec
Umpqua Valley
$21.50

Who would believe that I could use a word like “citrus” in describing a red wine?  As it turns out, there is citrus character lurking in many Malbecs, whether from Oregon, Washington or Argentina.  The precious little corner of the Umpqua AVA that is Abacela winery and vineyards affords a climate not unlike the prime growing regions of northern Spain.  Earl Jones found his paradise for growing Tempranillo, Garnacha and other suitable warm-weather varietals…like Malbec.  Do look for citrus, herbs, floral notes and cranberry in this lean and exciting wine.

Alamos
2009 Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
$13.00

The Mendoza region of Argentina is on roughly the same latitude as Buenos Aires (33 to 34 degrees S.) but is tucked neatly up against the foothills of the Andes Mountains.  The region is a prolific producer of wine including this tasty offering from Alamos.  Floral, citrus and cranberry aromas are focused and lead to a refreshing palate of bright red fruits and a food-friendly finish.  Good value.

Bodega Tamari
2008 Malbec, Reserva
Mendoza, Argnetina
$15.00

The Uco Valley vineyard where this wine originates lies at over 3,000 feet elevation in the foothills of the Andes.  Warm daytime temperatures and cool nights are similar to conditions found in Washington’s Columbia Valley.  Aromas of tangy berry are complemented by notes of Darjeeling tea and baking spice.  The palate offers ripe cherry flavors and notes of wood and vanilla.

Alexandria Nicole Cellars
2007 Tempranillo
Destiny Ridge Vnyd, Horse Heaven Hills
$32.00

One often makes a detailed visual inspection of a wine noting the deepest color of the wine in the glass and the change of hue at the edge.  ANC’s Tempranillo is deep ruby with a violet edge of youth and sparkling brilliance of reflected light.  Fulfilling the promise of the eye, aromas of blackcurrant, juicy black cherry, earth and spice lead to a rich palate of dark fruits with notes of anise, baking spice and toasty oak.  The wine needs some age, but is a delightful, youthful extravagance today.

Three Rivers Winery
2007 Tempranillo
Columbia Valley
$29.00

Winemaker Holly Turner recently celebrated her 10^th anniversary as winemaker at Three Rivers Winery, all the while crafting exceptional red and white wines from traditional and unusual varietals.  Her 2007 Tempranillo beckons with a deep ruby hue and aromas of cassis, pomegranate, earthy spice and vanilla.  The palate is soft and yielding, caressing with flavors of dark cherry, cocoa and vanilla – a big style for a Tempranillo, but great to pair with grilled pork and lamb.

M. Chapoutier – Belleruche
2008 Cotes du Rhone, Grenache/Syrah
$14.00

The maison of M. Chapoutier has been a name in the Rhone Valley for more than 200 years and carfts their wine with an eye to history and tradition.  This Cotes du Rhone – a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah – shows what experience lends to winemaking.  Bright and spicy with grape and floral notes, the wine is impeccably balanced and offers ever changing nuances as it evolves in the glass.  It is a great value and worthy company for your finest efforts from the grill.

Abacela
2008 Garnacha
Southern Oregon
$22.00

Another wine from Earl and Hilda Jones’ Roseburg winery, this Grenache takes the Spanish spelling and is blended with small quantities of Tempranillo and Malbec.  Aging in neutral oak allows the wine’s rich character to show through: the nose offers floral perfume, cranberry, baking spice and strawberry; the palate is rich with spicy black fruits – just right to accompany grilled meats.

Chateau Ste. Michelle
2007 Grenache
Columbia Valley
$25.00

Grenache is so often used as a blending grape that it takes a special vintage for the winemakers at Chateau Ste. Michelle to decide on bottling it as a single varietal.  Cherry and floral aromas lead to a palate of raspberry, anise and herb.  Great with marinated pork tenderloin or grilled salmon.

Alexandria Nicole Cellars
2008 Grenache
Destiny Ridge Vnyd, Horse Heaven Hills
$28.00

It took a few hours for this young buck of a Grenache to breathe up and offer its finest character.  Aged in lots of toasty oak, the nose shows cherry and vanilla with floral and spicy barrel notes.  The palate evokes flavors of cherry candy and vanilla with smoky oak flavors and a gripping black cherry finish.  Needs a little age or some hearty game from the grill.

Casa Silva
2008 Carmenere, Reserva
Colchagua Valley, Chile
$12.00

Carmenere is known as the lost grape of Bordeaux.  Once a partner of the other five Bordeaux varieties (Cab. Sauv., Merlot, Cab. Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot) the varietal was somehow lost and now exists only as a curiosity in Europe and at some sites in the U.S. [Editor's Note: including Washington State].  Oddly, cuttings were exported to South America in the mid-nineteenth century and the grape now is successfully cultivated in Chile and Argentina.  Casa Silva (founded 1892) offers this lush example showing a nose of cherry, lilac, herb and spice.  The palate is Merlot-like with soft cherry and berry notes with a clean, fruity finish.  Good value and a great story to tell at your wine tasting.
 

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